Monday, August 27, 2018

Eastern European Adventure, Day 8: Krakow to Prague

Ah yes, a train selfie
We got up and had breakfast at Charlotte before walking to the train station to catch the train to Prague. It was a 7-hour ride, and there were all kinds of stops at every little town along the way, but it didn’t take much longer than it would have to travel to the airport for a flight, and we got to see some of the countryside between the cities. There were many unpronounceable stations along the way.




The train moved very slowly through Poland, and then once we crossed the Czech border, the pace picked up considerably.

Is Panther.

Random scenery-from-the-train shot
Arriving in Prague Central Station
We rolled into Prague and it was a little bit of culture shock. There were a lot more people than we were expecting, and dragging suitcases through packed cobblestone squares ain’t the best. On the other hand, there’s more than just white people here and the architecture really knocks your socks off.



We found dinner at a strip mall Vietnamese joint. We wandered along the river and up to the Charles Bridge.

That's Prague Castle in the background. We're pretty sure we're the first people to take a selfie with that. 
Molly on the Vltava



We stopped at Cash Only for a cocktail, and then called it a night.

This is Day 8. Here's the full list of posts from this trip:

Sunday, August 26, 2018

Eastern European Adventure, Day 7: Krakow


It was another rainy morning in Krakow, and we headed to Scandale Royal for breakfast across the square from the hotel. I got the buffet, which was really tasty, and Molly got an egg sandwich, which ended up being two full sandwiches, and we took one of them with us to eat later. Our destination for the day was the Oskar Schindler Enamel Factory, which was quite a ways away, and since it was raining we decided to take a cab there and then walk our way back over the course of the afternoon/evening.

Apropos of nothing, here's a kebab shop with a shawarma-head logo
The museum was very interesting and very affordable, but it was very claustrophobic, which was probably part of the point, but also made things less pleasant. There was a 35-minute film, and we spent another 90 or so in the museum in addition to that, but it was difficult to put together a real coherent narrative of how Schindler did what he did, or even exactly what he did.

Umbrellas!
We bought a joint ticket with the Museum of Contemporary Art in Krakow, which was next door. I thought the art museum was a better experience, and the exhibits about nationalism and globalism were particularly good. We fought through the drizzle to find Zayka, a really good Indian restaurant where we shared a couple of curries. We walked back to our hotel, where we rested for a couple of hours to recharge, and then headed out for dinner at Boscaiola, a very nice Italian restaurant where we split a bottle of wine, and Molly had some pasta with salmon and I had a duck salad. We strolled around and stopped for small after dinner drinks at a couple of places, one of which was decorated like a boozy Steak and Shake, and the other which was a Belgian beer bar.




Molly got a couple of small bottles of local flavored vodka as souvenirs, and we called it a night.

This is Day 7. Here's the full list of posts from this trip:

Saturday, August 25, 2018

Eastern European Adventure, Day 6: Krakow


We got up and headed out in search of breakfast. Milk Bar Tomascza was our intended destination, but the sign on the door said they were closed for the next couple weeks for some reason, so we kept walking. We ended up sharing an omelet and a salad with chicken, along with a coffee and a fresh-squeezed orange juice. We strolled onward around the Old Town, which is really gorgeous, compact, and easy to navigate on foot.



We checked out the vendors in the Market Square and the Cloth Hall, and headed south along the main drag to Wawel Castle.


You can walk around the castle grounds for free, but you need a ticket to enter any of the buildings. We were curious about the Dragon’s Lair, which supposedly contains a dragon skeleton, but the line was really long for tickets and it had started to rain, so we skipped it and headed to Kazimierz, the former Jewish Quarter just outside the Old Town. We got a cake and coffee at a small coffee shop and strolled around for a while through the drizzle. It wasn’t as polished-up as the rest of the older part of the city, and I think that many of the businesses were more nightlife-focused and didn’t open until later in the day, but it was a very good area to walk around, as well. We strolled on the Planty, the former moat around the Old Town that the Austrians filled in and flattened after they took over Poland in the 1700s, and went in search of lunch at Pod Wawelem, which is an Austrian-style beer hall where you can get huge mugs of beer and delicious food, such as fried potato cakes with sour cream, salmon, and big ol’ salty caviar eggs the size of peas, and Hungarian goulash soup.


It was tremendous. We went in search of postcards at both the Market and a couple of museum bookstores, and stumbled upon a printmaking exhibition at a museum a couple of blocks from our hotel.




Next up was a very pleasant, very touristy drink at a café along the Square and some delightful people watching as the sun went down.


After that, we went and had a cafeteria-style meal at Chimera, which was very nice. You could have a serving of any four dishes, which was plenty of food for us. We were pretty worn out at that point, and headed back to the hotel.

This is Day 6. Here's the full list of posts from this trip:

Friday, August 24, 2018

Eastern European Adventure, Day 5: Warsaw to Krakow


I got up, had some hotel breakfast and headed out on foot for the Old Town. First, I figured I’d stash my luggage in a locker at the train station so I wouldn’t have to bring it from the hotel later, in case I was pressed for time. I had got a little sunburned the day before, so I first had to acquire some sunscreen from the apoteka. I walked along the Nowa Swiet (New World) to Castle Square, and then followed it into the Old Town. I’ll just let the pictures tell the story for the most part here.






I visited the MariaSokolowsky Curie Museum, which was $2.75 admission, and was small, but informative about her life and career.





I hit a bit of a wall at this point, and walked down the hill from the Old Town to the Multimedia Fountain, and I sat down against a wall and rested and people-watched for a while. From there, I walked to the Warsaw Uprising Monument, which was massive.



Next was the POLIN History of Polish Jews Museum, which set me back a whole $7.50, but was well worth it. The museum kicked off in the 10th or 11th century, with the arrival of Jews in what’s now Poland after emigrating from the Middle East, and followed their history through the centuries to the present day. I didn’t know that 80% of the worlds Jews lived in Poland before World War II, for instance, and that Poland had traditionally been much more accommodating to them than other countries.




It was only a couple of hours until I needed to catch my train at this point, so I started working my way back to the central station. I stopped and bought some postcard stamps at the post office. Molly’s flight into Warsaw was departing late, putting her connection to Krakow in jeopardy, so I tried to work out some logistics with her in case she missed her flight, but I eventually got on my train to Krakow.

The train to Krakow was much less modern than the train from Brzeg, with no digital monitors in the cars and no air conditioning. It was stifling in there, and I’m glad I’d brought a big bottle of water along, although it was still pretty miserable. I had to make an unexpected train change on the outskirts of Krakow, but I figured it out without too much trouble.

The marked route from the train station to Old Town Krakow takes you through a huge shopping mall, which I’m not sure is necessary. Anyway, it was about a 20-25 minute walk from the station to Hotel Globtroter, which was located on a beautiful square above the frattiest dance club imaginable.

I got checked in, bought some bottled water and snacks at the nearby Zabka, and wrote postcards with some Polish sports talk show on in the background while I waited for Molly to arrive. Her flight was late from Warsaw as well, so no problem with the connection, but public transit didn’t operate that late from the airport, so she had to take a shuttle. She finally rolled in at about 1 a.m. and we crashed for the night.

This is Day 5. Here's the full list of posts from this trip:

Thursday, August 23, 2018

Eastern European Adventure, Day 4: Brzeg to Warsaw

Woke up early and dragged my luggage to the train station to catch the 7:18 train to Warsaw. The train station didn’t feature much English signage, but it was straightforward enough to figure out where to go.


However, I didn’t realize that I needed to watch for which car number to board, and I ended up on the completely wrong end of the train from my seat. I eventually got it figured out, but I felt pretty ignorant. There were only two or three stops between Brzeg and the central station in Warsaw, and the trip went by pretty quickly. I got there at about 10:30 a.m., and got the train tickets for the rest of the trip purchased while I was at a station with English-speaking employees. The ticket for me from Warsaw to Krakow, and tickets for Molly and I from Krakow to Prague were a total of $101.

"Stalin's Penis" is what this building is nicknamed, since he "gave" it to Poland after WWII
Then I walked about 25-30 minutes to my hotel, which was about 1 mile south of the Old Town. I could add a bike rental to my room reservation for an additional $10, so I went ahead and did that. It was a ‘90s mountain-style frame with a 7-speed internal hub; totally functional for the task at hand. I set out for the Warsaw Poster Museum, which was 6 or 7 miles south of the hotel. I wasn’t sure what to expect for bike infrastructure, but I was pleasantly surprised. There were a few spots that were a little hairy, but once I got a half-mile south of the hotel, there was a dedicated off-street bike path the rest of the way adjacent to the sidewalk. There were a lot of people biking, which was great to see. The Poster Museum ended up being on the grounds of the former Summer Castle of the Polish royal family (Wilanow), but fortunately Thursdays were free admission day to the grounds, so I got to walk around there a little bit, too. The poster exhibit was awesome, and I bought a bunch of postcards of Polish-adapted posters for American movies.




Next, I wanted to explore the large city park south of downtown, so I rode back along the banks of the Vistula River. I found a bike bridge under the freeway crossing the river, so I rode across to the suburb on the other side, where I found a statue to what to me was a random Polish general, and rode back.


I found the U-Jazdowski, which was an old castle housing a modern art museum. Thursdays were free admission day there, too, so I checked that out briefly and went in search of the Chopin statue. Along the way, I found the Orangery, which was an old theatre building where they’d discovered beautiful frescoes behind the walls, as well as a bunch of plaster busts of Roman statues, as well as Polish royalty.


The Chopin statue is huge, cool, and in a really nice setting. They have free live concerts of his music there on Sundays in the summer.



I went and found dinner at an Indian restaurant in the Downtown area, and tried a Tyskie, which wasn’t as good as Zwyiec or the local lager in Brzeg. It tasted more like an American adjunct – too sweet and not enough hop character to balance it out. Beers in Warsaw are just as cheap as in Brzeg - $2 to $2.50 for a pint. I found a statue of Ronald Reagan on the way back to the hotel, because why not.


This is Day 4. Here's the full list of posts from this trip: